The return of the local – are pubs having a resurgence?

Zenita O’Neill is a director at Zengal Hospitality Group, which runs several Melbourne pubs and is in the process of refurbishing Flemington’s Auntie Annie’s Hotel. In her view, several factors have impacted the success of today’s pubs. The clientele’s standards, for one, are far higher. 

With the cost of a night out increasing significantly, O’Neill says customers want more than just a place to drink; they’re after an experience. “They want a nice, open, bright venue, and they actually expect more of the venue as well,” she says. “So we find that we’re having to, as a hospitality group, put more emphasis on the experience of a customer coming into a venue.” 

That experience doesn’t stop with the venue itself. O’Neill says modern pubs need to factor in an increasingly health-conscious clientele with more allergies and dietary requirements. Younger generations, in particular, are more discerning about what they’ll spend their hard-earned cash on.

“A lot more people appreciate the wines,” O’Neill says. “It used to be house [wines]. But now they know what they want, so that’s what we do.” Younger patrons, she adds, are also more likely to opt for ready-to-drink options like “hard” seltzers and soft drinks. 

James Ingram, co-founder and managing director of Peninsula Hospitality, agrees that contemporary pubs must offer more than a handful of beers on tap to satisfy their thirsty clientele. 

Peninsula Hospitality is the company behind Balmain’s The Dry Dock, a mainstay for locals that’s been slinging drinks since 1857. In 2023, the venue underwent a significant refurbishment, with changes extending far beyond the building’s heritage-listed facade, all the way to the drinks list and menu.

“We have an expansive wine list with 36 premium wines by the glass,” Ingram says. “A premium spirits offering including an extensive whisky, rum, tequila and mezcal collection, alongside all your classic cocktails and 16 beers on tap.” 

Food menus, too, have seen a significant shift. While many pubs still offer classics like the parmi, fish and chips, and schnitzel, others have pivoted towards menus with elevated selections. The Dry Dock’s menu now includes selections like crumbed pork cutlet, spanner-crab pasta, duck and an oyster bar. 

Modern pub-goers, Ingram says, are seeking “a relaxed and fun environment with an inviting atmosphere – like an extension of your living room”. To achieve that, The Dry Dock’s refurbishment includes cosy additions like a double-sided wood-burning fireplace and leather booths, as well as a walled courtyard for those who like to savour the afternoon’s rays.

“We’re dog-friendly too,” Ingram says, adding that the changes are part of the pub’s vision of “creating a community-focused venue, centred around great food, drinks and service that is welcoming to all”.

Since its reopening, Ingram says the venue has seen a significant change in its patronage. From its previous life as a quiet corner venue, The Dry Dock is now attracting a wider range of pubgoers. “It has really brought the community together, young, old, locals and visitors alike,” he says. “So, to be a part of that journey and ensure her place in Sydney’s pub community is something we are really proud of.”

Ingram hopes the reimagined The Dry Dock will be enjoyed by generations to come. “We have aimed to create a home away from home for locals and visitors alike, as we believe that is the essence of any great pub.”